Saturday, March 8, 2014

5 Great Landscape Design Articles

Its almost the time of year to dust off the work gloves and dig in to your spring garden planting and landscape designing. I perused the web for some great landscape design ideas and came across the following articles. They each offer something unique, from utilizing layers to creating welcoming walkways to your garden bench to hardscaping.

8 Ways to Fashion an Alluring Backyard Destination
Create a pleasing sense of place in the landscape for a backyard or patio that enlivens the senses

Contemporary Landscape design by Seattle Landscape Architect Lankford Associates Landscape Architects

How to Create a Successful Hardscape
Landscape designers offer tips on creating and installing a successful hardscape design.

Landscape Design Styles
Get ideas for the most popular landscape styles and themes

30 Landscape Design Ideas Shaping Up Your Summer Dream Home
Landscape design originally combines creativity and nature, with results that dazzle the mind and push the limits of aesthetics further.

And dont forget! Custom fire pits are always a solid addition to any garden or patio experience. And be sure to check out our sister company PatioOutfitters.net for all of your landscape design needs.

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Limestone Fynbos

I was recently contacted by the Duiwenhoks Conservancy to spread the word about a book that they have put together about South Africas quite unusual Limestone Fynbos.


Limestone Fynbos is an intriguing flora that occurs on South Africas southern coast, wherever there are limestone hills or cliffs. Most of the plants occur in a broad sweep from Gansbaai to the Gouritz River, including pockets at Cape Point and Macassar. This flora can be divided into three natural units, Agulhas Limestone, De Hope Limestone and Canca Limestone.



Limestone Fynbos of the Vermaaklikheid Area
Limestone Fynbos is floristically very different from other vegetation. The reason for this is that these plants thrive on a soil type that would be toxic to most fynbos plants, which are normally found on acidic or neutral soils.  They grow on limestone soils, which are so alkaline that if you squeeze lemon juice on them they will fizz. It is this alkalinity in the soil that is toxic to most fynbos plants. In a remarkable adaptation to a hostile soil environment, Limestone Fynbos has evolved as a unique flora that shares only a few species in common with sandstone fynbos and sand fynbos. As one would expect from a flora that is confined to such specific soils, many plants are endemic, meaning that they grow only on such soils or even at only one locality.

At first glance, this little-known flora appears as dry woody scrub. On closer inspection a fascinating array of intriguing and sometimes tiny flowers emerge. Over the past ten years, the author Louisa Oberholzer began collecting, describing and photographing the plants in the Vermaaklikheid area of the Western Cape ( Near Stillbaai). The Duiwenhoks Conservancy provided financial support for the identification of the species and finally for the publication of the book, Limestone Fynbos of the Vermaaklikheid Area. It presents a photographic record and description of 124 species. Of particular interest are the intriguing Fabaceae, or pea-like flowers and the pungent buchus, which belong to the Rutacea or citrus family.

The book is priced at R130.00 available from the Duiwenhoks Conservancy, (info@duiwenhoksconservancy.co.za) and also from the author, (louisa.stanford@gmail.com)



This book is an important vehicle to inform the public and particularly landowners about the value of Limestone Fynbos and the importance of controlling alien vegetation, which is a major threat to all the fynbos plant communities. As people see its value, this little known vegetation type will hopefully be better protected.
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5 Amazing Water Features in Landscape Design

In the vein of continuing with the bizarre and whacky....or in this case, cool as hell, Warming Trends presents "5 Amazing Water Features in Landscape Design." Now, just to be clear, we may be blurring the line in terms of what you may consider landscape design as some of these water features are man made natural wonders created from imagination and natural surroundings, others are fountains and pools that live in urban landscapes. The point is, that these are cool designs and inspiring for landscape architects as well as onlookers. Here are 5 of our favorites:

1) The headquarters entrance of Swarovski Crystal in Wattens, Austria.
Daniel Swarovski, born into a glass-cutting family in Bohemia, attended Vienna’s First Electrical Exhibition when he was 21 and dreamed of creating a machine that used electricity to automatically cut crystals. Swarovski patented an electric-powered machine in 1892, to precisely cut glass into multifaceted crystals. This fountain now sits at the entrance to the crystal cutting plant.




2) Crown Fountain in Chicago, Illinois.
This fountain was named in honor of Chicago’s Crown family, and was designed by Jaume Plensa, a Catalan conceptual artist. Being a Chicago native (technically only lived there the first three years of my life), this is a Chicago landmark and also offers a relief from the hot Chicago summers for millions of children and adults located right in the heart of downtowns Lakeshore Drive neighborhood near Millennium Park. If you havent visited this fountain before, the faces on the facade of the structure change every time the fountain is emptied and faces blink, make strange expressions and then ultimately empty their mouths with a stream of water it has filled itself back up.



3) Children’s Fountain by Tom Corbin in Kansas City, Missouri.
A little known fact is that Kansas City, as famous as it is for its bar-b-que, boasts the second most amount of fountains for any city in the world next to Rome in Italy. How about that? If you ever get to visit Kansas City, make sure to hit up the Plaza area where you will see several varieties of these amazing fountains on display.


4) Hydraulophone Fountain
Here you see the Ontario Science Centre hydraulophone flute with 45 finger holes. A hydraulophone is a fountain that can be played as an instrument like a woodwind instrument, using water rather than air. Hydraulophones have multiple “mouths,” or holes, so that the player can put fingers into specific mouths in order to play chords, while independently manipulating each finger for individual control of the notes in a chord. Here a skilled hydraulist demonstrates proper hydraulophone technique.



5) The Fountain Show at the Bellagio in Las Vegas, Nevada.
If youve ever been to Las Vegas, you know that everything is larger than life and extraordinary beyond normality. Therefore, you will also know that a must see is the nightly Fountain Show sitting right on the strip right outside of the Bellagio. This choreographed exposition is tantalizing and hypnotizing all at the same time. And there is no better way to express how this show works, than by actually seeing it with your own two eyes (or one depending on your vision capabilities). So here ya go, for you to see:



Now we here at Warming Trends realize that this blog states nothing about custom outdoor fire pits, which is what we do, but what we do know, is that fire and water DO mix in landscape design if achieved correctly. There is nothing better than a water and fire feature that balances out a landscape design plan.


Two natural elements, fire and water, dont compete for attention in landscape design, but rather add a sense of balance and serenity to outdoor living spaces. So if you are into that sort of thing, check us out online or call us today and well be happy to help you with your landscape design plans including fire and water. 1-877-566-5255.

Sources:
http://www.lifeinthefastlane.ca/worlds-most-bizarre-and-intriguing-water-fountains/art

http://www.travelingwiththejones.com/2010/09/30/destination-discovery-the-swarovski-crystal-worlds-wattens-austria/
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Friday, March 7, 2014

How to Train Rambling Roses

With lovely photographic diagrams, Hartwood Roses Blog has one of the simplest, most informative explantions of how to train rambling roses that I have found.
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Landscape Design In Auckland

Landscape Design in Auckland
Landscape Design in Auckland
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Custom 65 Degree Angled Burner Pan

Check out this custom burner and pan we created for a client of ours. Again, we entered the dimensions in to our Rhino 3D rendering software to get the exact angle the client wanted. Precision is perfection. And thats what we aim for here at Warming Trends, perfection.

For more examples of custom burners and pans, please visit our website www.warming-trends.com. If you are interested in a custom fire pit, please contact us online. Or call today. 1-877-556-5255.

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Earth Hour



Im not sure if youve heard any of the hype around Earth Hour, but its an amazing initiative by the World Wide Fund, encouraging every individual, business and community to take a stand against Climate Change. To show your support, you need to sign up and commit to switching off your lights for one hour on Saturday, March 28th at 8:30pm.

It started in Sydney, in 2007, and had around 2 million people coming together to switch off their lights for one hour for this vital cause.

In 2008, that number grew to about 50 million. Global landmarks like Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, Rome’s Colosseum and the Coca Cola billboard in Times Square, all switched off in support of Earth Hour.

This year, 2009, Earth Hour will see the lights go out on some of the most recognised attractions on the planet, including Cape Town’s Table Mountain, Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, Merlion in Singapore, Sydney Opera House, the iconic 6-star hotel, the Burj al Arab, in Dubai, Millennium Stadium in Cardiff and the world’s tallest constructed building, the Taipei 101.

Earth Hour 2009 has one major aim: to unite the citizens of the world in the fight against climate change in order to convince governments and world leaders that our planet cannot wait any longer. There simply isn’t enough time, and therefore 2009 is a colossally important, if not the most critical year, to take action on climate change.

Click here to join.
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Beyond the Border Part 2 Massing Matters

The same rules that create impact and drama in art can be applied to perennial planting.
My last post set up my proposition that perennials and grasses—the most dynamic plants a gardener can use—ought to not only be used more often, but used in as a larger percentage of our built landscapes.  It’s time to liberate perennials from the confines of the British border and embrace a new aesthetic inspired by the patterns and palettes of our native vegetation. 
This post will ground my lofty rhetoric with some practical how-to advice.  How do you design for long term success with plant material that is inherently ephemeral?    To achieve lasting, low-maintenance perennial gardens, there are two areas one must master: composition and plant selection.  This post will focus on the first, and most important, rule of composition: massing.
First, let’s understand the context we’re discussing.  Perennials in a landscape setting (parks, civic landscapes, large residential) are inherently different than a flower border.  They are larger in area, typically set farther away from the viewer, and are not gardened as intensively.  So the rules of composition must address this context.
Massing Matters
More than any other strategy, massing perennials and grasses together is the golden rule for landscape perennials.  Why?  We group several of the same plants together in order to make them more legible and give them visual impact.  A single flower in a half-acre planting disappears; but a block of 100 (residential), 200 (small park), or 500 (large park) has dramatic impact even from a distance.  Massing perennials together draws attention to their ornamental characteristics.   It amplifies their color, form, and texture.   More importantly, it also helps relate the scale of the plantings to the scale of a house, building, or park.  A mass of 20 Echinaceas, for example, can look paltry next to a monumental building. Massing plants together gives the planting proper proportions to their context.
Larger massings of sedges and perennials in a biofiltration garden for an office park.  The lines between the species create a pleasing composition.  Design by Ed Hamm for Rhodeside & Harwell. Photo by Thomas Rainer.
The European ‘New Wave’ style made popular by designers like Piet Oudolf, Noel Kingsbury, Michael King, and other celebrated designers tends to interplant perennials in smaller clusters to create highly textured tapestries.  I am personally a huge fan of this look, particularly to see it executed on large public projects like the Highline and Lurie Garden in Chicago (even Oudolf masses plants together for effect).  These designers use repetition rather than massing to give their compositions visual coherence. However, in my experience, the main drawback of a mixed meadow approach is that it requires quite a bit of maintenance, particularly in the heat and humidity of the eastern U.S. 
Massing reduces maintenance.  By placing plants of the same species together, you group them by their cultural requirements.  Everything within that block needs the same care.  It also makes weeds much easier to identify.  In highly mixed plantings, identifying a weed from a young perennial or grass requires a trained gardener—a luxury not available in most landscape settings.  Massing also makes it easy to re-plant if a perennial dies or struggles.  Every project I’ve ever worked on required re-planting anywhere from 3-10% after the first year or two.  With large masses, it’s very clear what needs to be replanted. 
A nicely interplanted moment, but with five species in just a few square feet, the perennials are already competing for light and nutrients.  To keep this composition together would require quite a bit of  maintenance.
Massing plants of the same species together also reduces competition between perennials.  Any time you mix species, the plants compete for light, water, and nutrients.  All of my early experiments with interplanting perennials went poorly as one plant often “ate” another.  The composition grew together, the more aggressive plants eliminated their more demure counterparts, and the end result was a total mess.  On one project where I interplanted about ½ acre of perennials, I went back a year after it was installed and had to un-interplant the entire garden.  The garden had grown together in this awful mess.  Anything that was mixed together was pulled out and separated.  The correction worked.  I’ve visited it several times in year two, three, and four.  The masses are more readable, the maintenance staff can easily identify weed from desired plan, and the garden is more stable. 
Since then I’ve had a good bit more success with interplanting perennials, but it requires much more planning, horticultural knowledge, and care with plant selection than I initially understood.  I’ll discuss some simpler strategies for interplanting later.  Even though I interplant quite a bit now, it is still within the context of larger masses. 
Two images of a garden designed by Wolfgang Oehme that feature large
perennial masses appropriately scaled for the residential setting.
My early mentor, Wolfgang Oehme, of the design firm Oehme, van Sweden & Associates is a huge proponent of large-scale massing.  Wolfgang is one of the great plantsmen of the last century, and his success in using this richly layered style of large perennial masses validates this method.  Since I’ve left OvS, I’ve had an opportunity to experiment with refinements to this style, particularly a method of matrix planting.  It blends all of the advantages of large masses (maintenance, legibility) with a more visually dynamic field.  More on that later.Next post: What type of perennials and grasses do I choose?  Some tips on choosing worthy plants for landscape settings. 
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home garden design

After finding myself a property for many years, lots of people decide that they want a new garden design however are often caught up as to how to start. There are a number regarding considerations, the main one is of ones taste. What can you like? Even though it is a backyard, it doesnt have to be overrun using grass, crops, trees and also flowers unless you want it to end up being. Some may possibly prefer the minimal maintenance advantages afforded simply by wood patio decking, gravel, wooden chips, ceramic tile or cement.
home garden design
Remember, its your garden to help you do to this what you want.

The easiest method to get ideas for your garden design is always to go to see what otherwise is out there that can take your elegant. You can search anywhere, your mates houses, open public gardens, a patch associated with grass in the center of a city supply you with a wealth of concepts.

Once you have a perception as to the type of garden you desire, you need to take into account the size of your backyard and strategy accordingly. In case you only have a smaller working area then you certainly do not want to get a little obsessive with sowing. Your tiny garden might very quickly turn out to be cluttered as well as feel claustrophobic. In case you have a small backyard you should make use of layers to make a sense of level and breezy colour strategies.

If you are fortunate enough to have a big space since your canvas youll be able to really go to town using your designs. Basically anything moves and is remaining entirely around your tastes.

Do not just start and buy crops, flowers or some different for your backyard until you have a strategy drawn out in some recoverable format, this should be a new to range representation of ones garden with everything else in place. It really is much easier (along with cheaper) to generate changes in some recoverable format than it is to perform then when youre putting your backyard together.

Once youve a plan in writing that you are pleased with, then you can collection to community to buy whatever you will need. Remember the tools!
home vegetable garden design
small home gardens
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Thursday, March 6, 2014

Gardens and Memory



Photo of Reservation 232 taken in 1927 (photo courtesy of Historical Society of Washington)

Gardening for me is mostly a solitary activity.  But the last few months, I’ve been sharing my watering, weeding, and transplanting with my ten-month old. 
It gives my wife a few moments of peace, and it is a pleasant distraction for Jude, who would otherwise be tugging on an electric cord or grubbing dust balls from underneath the refrigerator.  Jude is fascinated with the ornery mockingbirds (“dta” while pointing), the cloud of bees over our perennials, and the raisiny fruit on our Serviceberry tree.  He often notices something that I do not.  Yesterday, he leaned over to grab the seed clusters of our Kousa Dogwood.  They had budded into these gorgeous emerald orbs.  “Huh,” I thought.  “That’s cool.”
Image by Fred Jeranes
To see the garden with my son changes the way I experience it.  The filter through which I see the garden is dislocated, and I not only see the garden in a new way, but see my son as well.  I get these glimpses into his precious mind, experiencing the world all fresh and new.
Moments like these make me think about other gardeners.  If I feel most like myself—most grounded—while I wander through my garden, then I want to know other gardeners as they are in their gardens.  How do they see their gardens differently than I do?  What do they care for and love? 
Kim Breneger
Several months ago, I was contacted by a woman who is working with a group to create a memorial garden for Kim Brenegar.  Kim was a garden designer who lived and practiced in the Capitol Hill neighborhood in Washington, D.C.  Kim died at the age of 49 in a tragic car accident.  Although I never knew Kim personally, her presence was everywhere in the neighborhood.  Friends of mine were her clients, and they raved about her.  Kim was passionate and colorful gardener and designer.  I only knew people who knew Kim, but her enthusiasm was infectious.  Her loss was not just for those who loved her, but the entire neighborhood and gardening community in Washington, D.C. 
The Friends of Kim Brenegar have proposed a most fitting memorial.  Together with the D.C. Department of Parks and Recreation, the Friends group will redesign, restore, and maintain a garden called Kim’s garden on the site of a National Park Service Reservation at the intersection of 8th Street SE and Independence Avenue that Kim volunteered her time to maintain. 

This garden will be an ideal tribute to Kim.  What I love most about this project is not just the physical space—the garden—dedicated as a memorial, but that volunteers and friends will remember Kim through the act of gardening.  It’s not so much the place that is connected to her memory, but the activity of caring for the garden as Kim did.
We are what we love.  To connect with another, we must love what they loved, care for what they cared for, and cultivate what they cultivated.  In doing so, we get a glimpse of the heart.
To read more about Kim’s Garden, click here.
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Honey Locust

Gleditsia

A genus of 14 legume trees native to North America, South America, Asia and parts of Africa.
They all have attractive, ferny foliage. Most are heavily armed with thorns, often on the trunk. The Honey Locusts are deep and widely rooted.
The flowers are an important source of bee nectar.
The Gleditsias have very strong wood and branches that resist ice and wind.
The Gleditsias are very tough but do prefer full sun and moist, fertile soil.
They are generally tolerant of urban pollution.
Some species are prone to having their foliage eaten by Mimosa Webworm but are resistant to Gypsy Moth and deer. Mites, galls and borers may also be occasional problems.
Propagation is from seed. Germination is best either with boiling water poured over seeds which are then left to soak for 24 hours or soaked in boiling water and left to cool until swollen or soaked in sulfuric acid for 2 hours than in hot water.
Cultivars are typically grafted or budded. Bare root trees can be transplanted during the dormant season.


* photos taken on July 31 2011 in Hyde Park, NY











Gleditsia amorphoides ( South American Honey Locust )
Also called Caranchí. A large tree native to South America ( central Brazil to northern Argentina ) that is similar to Gleditsia triacanthos and can reach up to 82 feet with a trunk diameter of 3 feet. Tourist in South America can find it growing at the Buenos Aires Botanical Garden.
The bipinnate leaves are similar to that of Gleditsia triacanthos but the elliptic or oval leaflets are larger. The foliage is glossy bright green.
The bark is flaky and dark gray. The trunk is often thickly covered in viscious branched spines.
Not damaged at 15 F in Arizona. Estimated hardiness is to zone 6.
Propagation is from seed sown directly after last spring frost.

Gleditsia aquatica ( Water Locust )
A large tree native to swampy areas in eastern Texas, the Mississippi Valley and the southeastern U.S. It can grow large to 60 feet or more. Some records include: 20 years - 82 feet; largest on record - 100 x 75 feet with a trunk diameter of 3.3 feet; largest in Pennsylvania - 74 x 63 x 3.3 feet at Wyndmoor; largest in Michigan - 70 x 45 x 2.5 feet in Monroe, MI; largest in England - 80 feet. As some of these records indicate; this tree thrives far north of its natural range which was appearently shoved southward in the previous ice age.
The leaves are up to 10 inches in length and are composed of shiny green leaflets up to 1.5 x 0.5 inches in size. The leaves are typically pinnate but sometimes bipinnate on vigorous shoots.
The inconspicuous flowers are tiny, and yellow-green, packed into spikes up to 3 inches in length that appear in spring with the foliage.
The seedpods are short and diamond shaped, to 3 inches in length, containing only 1 or 2 seeds.
The twigs are zigzagged and the thorns are branched and up to 4 inches in length.
Hardy zones 4 to 10; thriving far north of its native range, especially in the Midwest.

Gleditsia caspica ( Caspian Locust )
A fast growing, extremely thorny, medium sized tree to 40 feet that is native to northern Iran in areas near the Caspian Sea. Some record include: 2 years - 8 feet; 3 years - 10 feet; 4 years - 14 feet; largest on record - 60 x 40 feet with a trunk diameter of 1.3 feet; largest in England - 53 feet. Long lived and can easily exceed 100 years.
The foliage is glossy, deep green turning to yellow in autumn.
The leaves up to 11 inches in length are composed of up to 20 leaflets up to 2.5 x 1.5 inches in size.
The densely packed, tiny green flowers are borne in downy racemes in spring and are followed by thin seedpods up to 8 inches in length.
The ferocious thorns are up to 6 inches in length.
Hardy zones 6 to 10 ( possibly hardier as a tree thrives in Chicago ). It is very heat tolerant and even reported as healthy and vigorous on irrigation in Tucson, Arizona.

Gleditsia delavayi ( Delavay Locust )
A large tree native to China that can reach a maximum height of 100 feet. The leaves are up to 10 inches in length and the pods are up to 20 inches. hardy north to zone 7

Gleditsia ferox
Largest on record - 82 feet. Hardy north to zone 6

Gleditsia japonica ( Japanese Honeylocust )
Also called Gleditsia horrida. A very thorny ( branched thorns up to 10 inches in length ), fast growing, medium sized, pyramidal tree to 60 feet that is native to China and Japan. Some records include: 7 years - 20 feet; largest on record - 82 x 50 feet with a trunk diameter of 6.6 feet. Long lived, it is known to persist as long as 450 years.
A graceful and delicate attractive landscape or shade tree in any locations thorns are not an issue.
The foliage is medium green in summer and turns to yellow in autumn. The leaves are up to 12 inches in length and are composed of up to 24 oblong to lance shape leaflets up to 2.5 x 0.5 inches in size.
The often twisted, seed pods are up to 12 inches in length.
Hardy zones 5 to 9, it thrives in much of central and eastenr U.S.
subsp. Koraiensis
is native to eastern China.

Gleditsia macrantha
A medium size tree native to central China that can reach a height of 60 or more. Some records include; fastest recorded growth rate - 2 feet; largest on record - 80 x 64 feet with a trunk diameter of 3 feet.
The leaves are composed of up to 18 leaflets, up to 3 inches in length.
Hardy north to zone 6 and grows well in cool summer England reaching near maximum size unlike most other Gleditsias

Gleditsia sinensis ( Chinese Honeylocust )
A fast growing, medium size tree to 50 feet or more that is native to China. Some records include: fastest recorded growth rate - 4 feet; 5 years - 14 feet; largest on record - 90 x 56 feet with a trunk diameter of 4.2 feet.
A long lived tree, its maximum life expectancy has not been recorded.
The foliage is dark lush green. The pinnate leaves up to 8 inches in length are composed of up to 18 leaflets to 3.5 x 1.5 inches in length. The Chinese Honeylocust is NOT double pinnate and has much larger leaflets than the North American Honeylocust.
The flower clusters are up to 7 inches in length.
The thick, woody, purplish brown seed pods are up to 10 inches in length.
Heat and drought tolerant; it even grows in Tucson, Arizona if irrigated.
Thrives in sun or partial shade and is hardy zones 5 to 10 tolerating as low as -20 F

* photo taken on March 2010 @ U.S. National Arboretum


* photo taken on May 8 2010 @ U.S. National Arboretum, D.C.







* photos taken on 4th of July 2010 @ U.S. National Arboretum, D.C.




Gleditsia triacanthos ( Honey Locust )
A large tree, rugged in structure ( often flat topped ) but delicate in foliage that can reach over 80 feet and is native to the Midwestern U.S. and far southern Ontario, Canada.
One clone grows native and wild in the mountains of Tamaulipas, Mexico.
Growth rates include: fastest recorded growth rate - 6 feet; 3 years - 16 feet; 5 years - 17 feet ( 25 x 16 feet unconfirmed ); 8 years - 25 feet
10 years - 50 x 43 feet; 15 years - 60 feet; largest on record - 190 x 82 feet with a trunk diameter of 10 feet; largest in Michigan - 116 x 105 x 6 feet in Lenawee Co.; oldest on record - 360 years. Back in the settlement days Honeylocusts of immense sizes dominated many a river valley in the Midwestern U.S.
Not sure what the Canadian record is however huge trees have been recorded in Ontario near St Davids, Niagara ( 86 x 4.3 feet diam in 1980 ) and along some farm roads outside of Amherstburg, Ontario ( observed over 10 years ago and not sure if they are still there ) within its tiny native range in Canada.
It is widely used as an urban street tree in North America including far east, north and west of its native natural range.
The ferny foliage appears late in spring, is bright green and turns to clear bright yellow to orange in autumn.
The leaves are pinnate on old shoots and double pinnate with as much as 150 leaflets on vigorous shoots.
The leaflets are typically shorter than an inch though rarely as large as 2 x 0.5 inches.
The flowers in spring are yellow green and borne in upright racemes up to 3 inches in length.
The twisted, dark red-brown, hanging seed pods are very long up to 12 or rarely 18 inches in length. Pods may be produced on trees as young as 5 years.
The immature pods while still green are sweet tasting and can be eaten raw or cooked as a vegetable.
The Honeylocust is an excellent forage plant for livestock. The pods can also be ground to a meal and added to animal feed. A single acre of trees can produce as much as 2.5 tons of pods yearly. The pods contain around 30 percent sugar. Fermenting the sugar-rich pods is an excellent way to produce fuel alcohol, high protein animal feed as well as nitrogen rich fertilizer.
The wood is heavy, up to 44 pounds per square foot. The bark on older trees is dark gray brown, in narrow plates. The wood gives off good fuel at 24 million Btu per cord. Honeylocust can be coppiced during late autumn or very early spring if used for wood production. The wood is useful for construction and cabinet making. The wood is also great for use as fence posts as termites avoid it.
The wood also contains 2 important anti-cancerous compounds ( Fuscin and Fisetin ).
While wild trees can be extremely thorny ( thorns are 3 to 12 inches in length ), especially on the trunk; most trees in cultivation originate from a rare subspecies called Inermis which is completely thornless as are its offspring.
Hardy zones 3 to 9 in full sun, preferring deep, rich, well drained soil.
Salt, saline soil, fire, drought, flood, alkaline soil, deer, pollution and heat tolerant and will even grow in Tucson, AZ
Propagation is from seed or for cultivars - hard or green cuttings or root cuttings.
The Honeylocust does not enjoy being transplants. It is recommended to sow the seeds or plant the rooted cuttings in long cardboard tubes asa 1 year seedling may have a taproot 2 to 3 feet long.

* Wild Honey Locusts such as the ones in the background line many farm roads in the midwest including along the family farm near Amherstburg, Ontario











* photo taken on May 4 2010 in Columbia, MD



* photo taken on May 8 2010 @ McCrillis Gardens, Bethesda, MD


* photo of unknown source on internet





* photo taken on July 1 2010 in Ellicott City, MD




* photos taken on July 17 2010 @ Morris Arboretum, Philly, PA















* photo taken on August 2 2010 @ Bayfield, Ontario overlooking Lake Huron

* photo taken by William R. Barbour @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database


Bujouti
Reaches up to 110 feet in height with a trunk up to 5 feet in diameter, though usually much less. The branches are somewhat pendulous and the foliage is bright green.

Canhoun
Similar to species, originally developed for improved seed pod production.

Continental
Vigorous with deep blue-green foliage.

Draves
Extremely fast growing, columnar and strongly upright. Growth rates as much as 9 feet in a year have been recorded.

Emerald Cascade
Weeping tree. The foliage is luxuriant deep green in summer and turns to bright yellow in autumn.

Fairview
Among the fastest growing of all thornless green foliage cultivars, reaches a maximum size of 50 x 40 feet in only 15 years, eventually much larger.

Green Glory
Rapid growing and pyramidal when young. Foliage is deep green and last late in autumn.

Halka
A thornless and very fast growing with a tall, somewhat narrow crown.
Foliage turns to golden yellow in autumn.

Moraine
A thornless, tall, well shaped, broad-crowned tree. The dense foliage is dense, ferny, deep green and resistant to bagworms and webworm. The foliage turns intense golden-yellow during autumn. A thornless and fruitless male clone that is fast growing but not as much as some other cultivars, around 32 x 28 feet can be expected in 15 years.


* photo taken on May 1 2010 in Ellicott City, MD



Nana
Slower growing and rounded, reaching a maximum size of 60 x 60 feet in 100 years and eventually 80 feet.

Northern Acclaim
Extremely hardy, north to zone 3a on the Great Plains. It is also very vigorous, reaching up to 45 feet in 25 years. Foliage turns to golden yellow in autumn.

Prairie Silk
Extra hardy, to -43 F and even thrives in Saskatchewan and Winnipeg, MB. This cultivar can reach as large as 60 x 40 feet in North Dakotas harsh climate.

Rubylace
A medium-sized tree, reaching up to 70 feet; it is thornless.
The foliage is deep red at first turning to bronze-green.

* photos taken on August 3 2012 @ University of Western Ontario, London, ON


Shademaster
Very fast growing with a strong, straight trunk and upright broad canopy, can reach 25 feet in 6 years; 45 x 35 feet in 15 years, eventually much larger.
Was the best tree selected from a plot of 20 000 seedlings tested.
The foliage is luxuriant deep green in summer and lasts very late in autumn.
It is thornless and bears very few pods.

* photo of unknown internet source

USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database / Herman, D.E., et al. 1996. North Dakota tree handbook


Skyline
Thornless and very fast growing ( 10 years - 30 feet; 15 years - 45 x 35 feet, evenautlly much larger ) developing a very symmetrical broadly conical canopy.
The foliage is deep green and turns to golden-yellow in autumn.

Sunburst
Fast growing and thornless, with bright yellow young foliage that matures to luxuriant green. Very attractive!

* photo dated April 1973 Amherstburg, ON from family photo album


* photo taken on August 1994 in Amherstburg, Ontario


* photo taken on August 4 2010 @ Stratford, Ontario



Trueshade
Broad domed canopy with widely spreading and horizontal lower branches.
Excellent golden fall color.

Gleditsia vestita ( Villose Honey Locust )
A fast growing, large tree to 82 feet, native to central China where it is extremely endangered. Some records include: 1 st year - 4 feet; largest on record - 100 x 60 feet.
The leaves are composed of up to 18 leaflets up to 2.5 inches in length.
The twisted pods are very large, up to 16 x 2.5 inches.
This tree has a trunk covered in short, stout branches covered with spines
Hardy north to zone 6 and tolerates cool summers and is sometimes grown in British Columbia.
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